Flattering Your Shape

Flattering your Shape: March


shapesPetite-
Slacks- Pants or jeans that have a slim leg will be most flattering for your petite frame, wider leg styles tend to make you look stubby and often sloppy.  Boot cut, straight leg or pant with a slight flare is best for you. Typically any wash of denim works for you; however a dark plain wash will always make you appear slimmer and taller. Avoid jeans that have the "distressed" look  if you carry your weight in your thighs or hips. If you are not curvy distressed jeans can work in your favor by creating a little shape for your body.  Your professional wardrobe should include a few pairs of pants.  For your petitie frame,  the best look for you would be fitted at the waist and have a straight cut all the way down. If you are taller than 5’4” you can do a cuff, otherwise a cuff will shorten the leg line so keep it clean. You are petite so it may be difficult to find a pant that is the perfect length.  To ensure the perfect fit dress your largest area first and get the rest altered to fit you perfectly.

Tops- Invest in bright prints. Be sure they are small prints, not big ones; they tend to be too overpowering for a small frame. If you are busty go with a v-neck to avoid the uni-boob look. Small chested ladies, crew necks are often flattering for your shape. Again make sure that your tops fit close to the body, anything too baggy will make you look aged and frumpy.

Skirts/Dresses- You can do some fun prints here. Remember, if you have a slim or petite frame look for small prints. Stick with either straight or a-line silhouettes. If you are bottom heavy an A-line skirt or dress would be ideal for you. This style has a silhouette that is narrower at the top, flaring wider toward the bottom thereby resembling the letter "A". This style works well with most figure types; very good for disguising bottom-heavy figures.

Plus Size-
Slacks- Look for slimming pin stripes for your workday wear. Vertical lines elongate your appearance. If you are well proportioned throughout the leg and are 5'4" or taller, boot cut jeans are ideal for your figure.  If you are shorter, stick with a straight leg jean.  This will make your legs look longer, which is what you want, right!  No matter how tall you are, a dark solid wash is going to be most flattering for your shape. Selecting denim that is "distressed" on a certain area will merely emphasize that particular area of your body. For example denim that has "distress" on the hip, your hips will be accentuated. If your hips are not your most flattering asset, steer clear of distressed denim.

Tops-  Select pieces that fit close to the body. Extra fabric will make you appear bulkier than you really are.  For example a nice knit with either a scoop or
v-neck.  If you are busty and are wearing a v-neck be sure that the "ladies" aren’t popping out too much. Consider layering with a camisole underneath.  With the button up blouse, be sure that you fit the chest first.  If the shirt is too tight in this area your "ladies" could be in grave danger of suffocation!  If alterations are needed on the waist, sleeves or even shoulders, it is worth the investment  for a perfect fit.  Look for brands with Lycra in them; they will make you feel less restricted. Have fun with your tops, try a pattern.  It can jazz up your outfit and bring a pop of color too! Remember to make sure you are shopping for a pattern proportionate to your size.

Skirts/ Dresses- To play up your existing curves without exaggerating them, try a straight skirt that doesn’t narrow at the knee.  Try on a conservative tweed patterned skirt. It is a great way to add texture and pattern to your look; make sure you are shopping for a thin rather than thick tweed, if its too thick it will add bulk. For dresses, make sure to stick with a v-neck to accentuate your chest. The silhouette you are going for with your dress is an a-line or something with a straight skirt that does not narrow at the knee. If you are petite, make sure your skirt or dress is no longer than your knees. An A-line will accentuate your best features and camouflage the less favorable.

Pear Shaped-
Slacks- Shop for dark, solid colors for your pants. As I told my plus size gals, go for a solid, dark wash. Opt for pants and denim with a fuller leg such as a straight leg; this will help even out your proportions. When dressing up for work follow these same rules. Look for suits/ pants in a dark colors. Black, dark navy, chocolate or charcoal grey; these colorful options will brighten up your wardrobe and give a great alternative to the classic black suit.

Tops- Keep bold patterns up top. When matched with a darker bottom as suggested above, this visual trick keeps the eye where you want it, on your most flattering areas. By using contrasting colors (like white on top and navy on the bottom), you can create a distinct waistline, and that serves to emphasize an already narrow waist. If you are going for a jacket, make sure that it hits just at the top of the hip, creating a longer leg line slimming the hip.

Skirts/ Dresses-  An A-line skirt is going to be the most flattering for your shape. The A- line skirt should fall away from the body; mid-weight fabrics are most flattering. This allows your best features to be showcased. Keeping with darker colors will do the most justice to camouflage the hip and tush. When shopping for dresses you want to keep the eye focused on your more flattering assets such as your shoulders, torso and of course your beautiful face. Try a strapless dress if you are small chested, if you need something with straps try a halter or something with a slight detail that forces the eye up towards your shoulders; you want to also make sure that no matter your bust size the torso portion of the dress should be more fitted and the skirt should have a slight a-line.

Busty-
Slacks- The best way to fool the eye without adding bulk is by wearing a pant that has a fuller leg. Stay with a lighter wash denim, (a dark denim wash can camouflage your legs and just make you appear even chestier than you already are) or khaki pant for casual wear and a wide leg pant or skirt for work wear. Remember, don't go over board with the wide leg pant, if they are too baggy you will look sloppy.

Tops/ Jackets- Jackets are great for women with large chests. However, a three button jacket is preferred because it “locks and loads” the chest forcing it in and up separating the chest from your waist and underarm area showing a narrow silhouette. If you are big chested and on the petite side, try a jacket with a three quarter length sleeve instead of a full length jacket. This separates the arm from the torso. The lapel should be narrow or have slight detail such as piping, that will detract from the chest.  Knits are great to pair with skirts or pants, they are structured and fit close to the body which show off your waist and separate the waist from the chest.

Skirts/dresses- For dress-wear your shoulder straps should be about 2-3 inches wide, or wide enough to conceal your bra straps. The neckline most flattering for you is a v-neck. It accentuates your fantastic shoulders and prevents the uni-boob look. When you have a large chest it is easy to lose your mid section, making you look heavier than you are. To prevent this from happening look for styles that nip in at the waist, you can create this effect with some horizontal ruching or with a seam just under the bust line such as an empire waistline. An A-line skirt here will be able to balance out the look and make you look appropriately proportioned.


NOTE- NEVER WEAR A TAPERED LEG!  To ensure there is no confusion here, a tapered leg is a pant leg that is wider at the top and hug the ankles. This will not flatter any body shape ever.

Hot tip:
•    Don’t be afraid to try a “POP” of color. Especially if you are wearing a suit. This will bring some interest to the entire outfit and make you stand out. Just because you are dressing up for work doesn’t mean you need to look stuffy. Use this opportunity to show off a little of your personality  and  personal style through the outfit.
•    Make sure you are dressing the biggest portion of your body first, whether that be you’re ta-ta’s, thighs, butt etc. If need be alter the portion of the outfit that is too big for your frame.
•    Layering is great! However be sure that when layering your layering pieces fit properly. Try a button up shirt with a fitted leather jacket, it can be pretty flattering and is a great opportunity for you too add color to your outfit
•    If you do not have a fantastically supportive bra, GET ONE. Especially if you are busty. Supporting those "girls" will separate your waist from your chest, giving you cleaner lines.
•    To best flatter your waist and accentuate your curves, try belting any outfit.
•    Alter your clothing to fit your body, if you are unable to find something in a petite size, a seamstress is going to be your new best friend. They know how to make everything you own look like a million bucks on you.  If you wear clothes too baggy for you it can tend to make you look frumpy.